3.07.2010

Gourmet Magazine: Dec. '93 Pancake Recipe

My mom has made these pancakes for as long as I can remember. It was always a treat, waking up on Sunday mornings to the aroma of butter-rich, syrupy pancakes and sizzling bacon. In fact, she still has the original December 1993 issue in a kitchen drawer, its pages permanently glued with batter of bygone eras to this special pancake recipe.


Gourmet Magazine, December 1993 Pancake Recipe

This recipe holds a special place in my family's heart. Not only was it our Sunday morning pancake recipe, it was the recipe my mom and I made for brunch on Christmas morning. It was the brunch item my grandpa couldn't get enough of, the one my godfather would actually eat without complaining and the recipe that – requiring a bit of concentration – my grandma would inevitably want to chat about as I whipped the egg whites. As time has passed, my grandpa still raves over the pancakes every year, my godfather is in his 90's and can't make it to brunch anymore, and we miss my grandma very much.

That said, this pancake recipe is one of the things that brought – and still brings – my family together. I hope it does the same for you.

Gourmet Magazine Pancake Recipe: December 1993 Issue
  • 3 large eggs, separated
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup milk
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • Pure maple syrup as an accompaniment
In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, softened butter, baking powder, baking soda, salt, milk, flour and sugar until the mixture is smooth.


In another bowl (preferably chilled metal or glass), with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they just hold stiff peaks and fold them into the flour mixture gently but thoroughly.

Whip egg whites until they hold soft peaks

Gently fold egg whites into batter mixture

Heat a griddle over moderately-high heat until it is hot enough to make drops of water scatter over its surface. Spray griddle with non-stick spray or rub with a pat of butter to avoid sticking.

Grease a hot skillet or griddle pan
Pour spoonfuls of batter onto hot griddle. When batter begins to bubble, flip pancake and let cook until fluffy and browned, about 1-2 minutes.

Spoon batter onto hot griddle

Let batter cook until it begins to bubble, 1-2 minutes

Flip and let cook until fluffy and golden brown

Move cooked pancakes to slightly warmed rear of griddle

Transfer pancake to a warm plate; top with pat of butter and hot maple syrup. Serve immediately. Enjoy!

Recipe makes ~20 pancakes (3-4 per serving)

3.05.2010

Review: Sashi Sushi + Sake Lounge

Earlier this week I had the pleasure of attending a food blogger dinner at Manhattan Beach sushi hot spot, Sashi Sushi + Sake Lounge. Also in attendance were Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, Kevin of KevinEats, Javier of Teenage Glutster, Matt of Mattatouille and Sonja of Active Foodie. Equipped only with the knowledge that Sashi's Chef Makoto would be preparing a tasting menu of his signature dishes paired with sake, I went with relatively little idea of what to expect. It was nearly five hours and 22 masterful courses later – when I was caught in a battle between my palate saying "yes" and my stomach saying "no" – that I remembered Chef Makoto's mantra: "What's possible?" That night anything was possible and we were all fortunate to bear witness.

A bit about Chef Makoto: Growing up in Nagoya, Japan, Chef Makoto began his career in the kitchen at age 15. For over 10 years, he trained in the classics under Master Sushi chef Makoto Kumazaki, gaining centuries of knowledge with tradition and discipline. Passionate to keep growing, he moved to New York where Chef Masaharu Morimoto recruited him. The opportunity was eye opening. Under Morimoto's direction, Makoto learned to meld classic Japanese cuisine with cooking styles from all over the world. During his six years with Morimoto, Makoto opened new restaurants in Manhattan, Washington D.C. and Tokyo. Morimoto Tokyo earned a coveted Michelin star. Chef Makoto also performed as a sous chef in 13 episodes of the Food Network's hit show, Iron Chef.


Simply put, Chef Makoto's cuisine is stellar. His discipline, training and dedication to his craft is clear; but what pushes Makoto over the edge is his freedom to explore new-Japanese techniques in his own kitchen. As a result, guests experience dishes through more than just their eyes and palates. That experience extends to Sashi's decor, which within the restaurant (not the bar) is a celebration of simplicity and nature. Shelves of rustic driftwood and moss contrast against a neutral back splash of beige glass tile, bringing a diner's attention to the chef's work rather than the decor. Reserve that attention for the bar area, which is dimly-lit and almost obtrusively loud from the antics of, dare I say it, cougars. And I don't mean of the"Big Cat" variety.

My sincere thanks to Chef Makoto, Greg and Cary for an all-around delicious evening.

1. Amuse Bouche | Airbread, clam chowder infusion, Manila clam, truffle oil. A perfect way to start our evening. One bite into the thin airbread resulted in an explosion of warm, comforting clam chowder. The Manila clam was melt-in-your-mouth good, topped with a generous helping of truffle oil. As a truffle lover, I found it wonderful.

2. Edamame 2 Ways | #1 - Steamed edamame, cinnamon, black pepper, sea salt, chili, mirin, nutmeg. #2 - Hot edamame, sea salt. An interesting spin on traditional edamame. The spices did not overpower the taste of the bean, providing just enough kick to keep one going back for more. The sea salt edamame was a standard alternative.

3. Crispy asparagus | Beer battered asparagus, nori aioli. A hit at our table, the asparagus was fried to perfection. The crisp, flavorful coating of tempura hid a perfectly steamed asparagus. The nori aioli was an provided a cool, creamy contrast to the hot crunch of the tempura.

4. Lemon Oregano Mushroom | Char grilled shitake mushroom, oregano pesto. Large shitake mushrooms bathed in an earthy, oregano pesto. While the dish had great flavor and texture – shitakes are one of my favorite mushrooms – the larger size of the mushroom made it difficult to bite and chew.


5. Sashimi & Vegetable Lettuce Wraps | Tuna, salmon, yellowtail, red snapper, surf clam. Cucumber, shiso leaf, bean sprouts. Dip trio: wasabi soy, spicy chili and miso aioli. Our table literally fought over this dish. The freshness of the fish and crisp chill of the vegetables made it impossible not to enjoy. The trio of sauces lent a variety of bold flavors to each bite, giving even the most serious of sashimi lovers permission to play with their food.


6. Gindara | Alaskan wild black cod, sweet miso marinade. Miso black cod is one of my favorite dishes, but Sashi's robata version would have benefited from less time on the grill. It had a fabulous miso flavor and crunchy exterior, but the cod's interior flesh was a bit too soft, bordering on mushy even. The marinade was so wonderful it negated the housemade sauces for me, but they were a nice touch.


Housemade mustard, sweet vinaigrette & garlic ponzu sauces.

7. Steam Bun | Roasted kurobuta pork belly, pickled cucumber, kewpie slaw, scallion. The pork belly was cooked to smoky perfection; its delicate texture practically melting in your mouth. The pickled cucumber and kewpie slaw gave the dish a great crunch and wonderfully tangy flavor, while the bun itself could have been less dense. A lighter, fluffier bun and this would have been flawless.


8. Toro Tar Tar with Caviar | Fatty tuna, soy dashi broth, wasabi, paddlefish caviar. The toro's presentation was gorgeous, with a custom ice mold made and tableside pouring of the soy dashi broth. Individual spoons were laid on the icy foundation, making them the perfect icy temperature for scooping the toro. The toro's richness was cut nicely by the wasabi's heat and smooth, yet not overly salty, taste of the glossy paddlefish pearls. Japanese plum served a garnish.


9. Sashi poke 2010 | Tuna, avocado, cucumber, pistachios, sweet lime chili vinaigrette, truffle aioli, wonton chips. Opinions were mixed about the poke. Some felt the pistachios in this dish were overpowering, but I absolutely adore nutty flavors. That said, this dish was wonderful. The textural contrast between the buttery ahi, the crunch of the pistachios and the crisp of the wonton chips was excellent. A faint dusting of chili powder on each wonton likened it to a Lay's BBQ-flavored potato chip, leaving a pleasant amount of lingering heat on the lips.


10. Black Tiger Prawn Tempura | Tempura battered black tiger prawns, wasabi aioli, baby frisee salad. Unfortunately, a too-generous helping of aioli overpowered the shrimp, taking away from their crisp texture and sweet flavor. A bit less aioli and this would have been great.


11. Lobster with Crispy Onion | Lobster sashimi, chili oil, ponzu sauce, crispy onion. The sweet, succulent lobster sashimi, peppery micro greens, hint of citrus ponzu and natural sugar from the crisp onions made this a beautiful dish.


12. King Crab Claws "Corn Dogs" | Tempura batter crab claws, lemon thyme, sea salt, lemon grass dipping sauce. Incredibly innovative and fun, if not frustrating, to eat after the first magical bite. Frustrating in a good way, as you'll do everything possible to extract every last bit of meat from the crab claw. Chopsticks don't work? Use your fingers. Fingers don't work? Break the claw into as many pieces as you can and dig into the sweet flesh of the crab. The lemon grass dipping sauce was a perfect accompaniment, but many of us abandoned it after the first bite, preferring to go straight for the sumptuous crab meat.

13. Tai with Uni | Japanese snapper, sea urchin, yuzukosho, shiso salad. One of my favorite dishes. Supple snapper topped with rich, creamy uni and shiso/nori slaw. Fantastic.


14. Chicken Teriyaki Pizza | Red onion, shishito peppers, nori aioli, parmesan cheese, teriyaki sauce. This was surprisingly good, if not a bit heavy on the teriyaki. Clumps of Japanese mushrooms gave the pizza a great earthiness and the sweet red onions were a lovely compliment to the smoky grilled chicken. The crust would have benefited from fewer toppings, allowing it to maintain its structural integrity.


15. Tuna Sashimi Pizza | Tuna carpaccio, cilantro, cherry tomato, red onion, black olives, jalapeno. A perfectly light dish. Farm fresh, crisp vegetables, jeweled ahi and a cracker-like crust made this a winner.


16. Wagyu "Hot Rock" | Japaneese Wagyu beef prepared tableside on a hot rock. One simply cannot go wrong with high-quality Wagyu. Marbled gorgeously, the beef cooked within seconds on the sizzling stone. Each bite was increasingly rich and satisfying.


17. Ishiyaki "Crafted Tableside" | Spinach, namul, pickled dikon, carrots, Jidori egg, jasmine rice, hamachi. I love this spin on Bimbimbop, traditionally served with beef or pork. Slices of hamachi were gently lined against the sides of the scalding bowl, given a chance to cook while the attendant broke apart the Jidori egg and combined its glorious yolk with the rest of the ingredients. I could have eaten much more than my alloted 1/7 of the bowl.


18. Kalbi | Short ribs marinated in house special sauce. Cut against the grain for a more practical, meat-filled bite, the Kalbi were an interesting alternative to traditional Korean short ribs. The smoked flavors were robust, but per usual the short rib meat was a bit too tough for me.


19. Foie Gras | A-grade Hudson Valley fois gras, sweet shiso marinade. A perfect sear encrusted the delicate fois gras, and while I was getting very full at this point, one bite was perfect. The fois gras was incredibly rich and buttery and I found a tiny dip in the ripened raspberry coulis to be a great complement.


20. Taiwan Ramen Noodle | Nagoya-style spicy noodle soup. Beef, pork, asian chives & dried red chili. I wish this had come earlier in the evening because it was at this point that my dinner experience became a "(Wo)Man v. Food" event. The Taiwan Ramen Noodle soup was, in a word, amazing. The epitome of asian comfort food with ground pork, beef, perfectly slurpy noodles and a strong kick from the dried chili flakes, the soup was a show-stopper. I've been craving it ever since.


21. Toban Yaki | Bananas, pineapple, fuji apples baked in toban pot. Passion fruit white chocolate sauce and coconut ice cream accompaniment. There's just no two ways about it, this was awesome. Imagine ripe, juicy tropical fruits jumped into a passion fruit and white chocolate jacuzzi, then invited coconut ice cream to cool down the party. It was hot, tart, sweet, rich, creamy goodness. And the tagine presentation was a great touch. Yum.


22. Bamboo Cup | Chocolate orange mousse, cinnamon crumble, green tea ice cream, Cointreau foam. Eating this was like digging to the center of the earth, if the earth was made of layers of chocolate mousse, cinnamon crumble and green tea ice cream. The complex flavors, hot vs. cold and creamy vs. crunchy contrast was great, and the citrus Cointreau foam cleverly hid the subterranean delights.


23. Japanese Frozen Yogurt | Calpico yogurt, mango passion fruit sorbet, fresh berries. A light alternative to the other two desserts, we were encouraged to make a mess of the presentation. Take your spoon, break down the ice cream cone into the sorbet and berries and mix it up. The result is a refreshing spoonful of ripe berries, frozen sorbet and a slight crunch from the cone.


SAKE
1. Junmaiginjo Jokigen | Beautifully soft with aromas of pear, apple and slightly acidic finish.

2. Hana Hou Hou Shu Sparking | Sparkling and infused with rose petals and hibiscus. My favorite sake of the evening.

3. Ama no To Tokubetsu Junmai "Heaven's Door" | Slightly dry with an earthy aroma. A sip revealed an essence of fruit and sweet finish.


3.04.2010

My Dinner With Gordon Ramsay

Okay, I lied. So I didn't have dinner with Gordon Ramsay. But it was very close, like the Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon game. Here's what happened.

A few days ago I had the pleasure of interviewing Lisa Hemmat, owner of Lido di Manhattan Ristorante & Bar for my LA Weekly article. Why were we talking? Hemmat's six-year-old Lido is being featured – and ritualistically torn apart – on Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares tonight (FOX, 9pm). As part of my "research," I made my way down to see Lisa and check out some of Lido's latest menu items, inspired by Gordon Ramsay. It was my second trip to Lido in about a year and I've got to say the new menu items, not to mention a month-long stint with Hell's Kitchen Chef Scott Leibfried, have really paid off.

Lido's "Neighborhood Wine Bar" Interior

Ramsay & Hemmat Reworked Lido's Menu
Gordon taught a primarily front-of-house Hemmat her first cooking lesson (I'm jealous!), during which they created specials like the Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad and Crab Linguini. Some other Kitchen Nightmares-related menu items are the The Homemade Spinach Fettuccine (vegetarian), Baked Mushroom Penne, 8 oz Angus Burger, Grilled Rosemary Chicken, Shrimp & Scallops over Homemade Angel Hair. For appetizers, Gordon added the White bean Hummus, Asparagus & Prociutto, Creamy Mushroom Dip, Heirloom Caprese, a new version of the Calamari Fritti, Grilled baby Artichokes, Seared Scallops and Artisan Cheese Plate.

Calamari Fritti w/ Green Goddess Dressing
Bryan loved the Calamari Fritti with Green Goddess dressing. It was light and crispy, not letting the oil weigh it down. The dressing, Ramsay's substitute for typical marinara, provided an unexpected, yet welcome bite from the chives and lemon juice.

Grilled Vegetable & Goat Cheese Flatbread
Lisa recommended the new flatbread, so we chose one with grilled vegetables. It had a great tanginess from the goat cheese, beautiful color and texture from the grilled asparagus, zucchini and tomato, and a flavorful crust. I would've liked a crunchier crust that held its structural integrity, but otherwise the flavors were right on.

Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad
Green beans | Tomatoes | Capers | Potatoes | Anchovies
The Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad was truly one of the best I've had, which as a Nicoise fanatic is not easy to say. The kicker? The crunchy, salty heat of new potatoes straight out of the oven. The contrast of the potatoes against the crisp, thinly-sliced romaine and velvety seared tuna was perfect for me. I also wish I had the ingredient list for the Nicoise dressing, because it was a great balance of salty anchovies and hint of citrus. Throw in the pop of the capers and creamy egg yolks and you've got yourself one heck of a great salad.

Lemon Semi-Freddo with Pine Nuts
The Lemon Semi-Freddo was the perfect ending to our meal. A two-day process to make, the semi-freddo is a mixture of cream, eggs, sugar and lemon juice that is heated, then frozen overnight and finally served. The pine nuts and strawberries lent an earthy oiliness and sweetness, respectively. We enjoyed it a lot.

So if you're in the South Bay area, stop by Lido di Manhattan. But make sure to make a reservation – Lido's Kitchen Nightmares episode runs tonight – and they're sure to be busy!

3.02.2010

Hello, Love: Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Paste

I fell in love the other day, deeply and truly. So much so that it would be wrong of me to keep my new love to myself; I need to share with you. If you're a baker – or a vanilla-lover – Nielsen-Massey's Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste will change your life. I'm always on the hunt for increasingly potent vanilla options, trying various strength liquid vanilla extracts for extra kick. Or actual vanilla beans, which after a while become prohibitively expensive. So when I tried Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste at a HipCooks cooking class, I was in heaven. I wasn't the only one in the class that became slightly obsessed with the magical paste, so I admittedly kept one eye on my dish and another on the wall, making sure the enchanted bottles of vanilla paste didn't disappear. Lucky for me, they didn't. But it didn't stop me from making a mad dash after class to get my hands on one.


Why is it so amazing? Nielsen-Massey's formula is made from pure vanilla with natural vanilla beans that has been worked into a paste. It's perfect in any baked recipe and even adds a wonderfully genuine taste of vanilla to breakfast dishes (I put a teaspoon in my waffle batter just the other morning). And at $8/bottle, it's great to know that a tiny bit goes a long way. So instead of doubling (or even tripling) doses of watered-down vanilla extract, try this Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Bean Paste. You'll get that vanilla kick you've been looking for.

3.01.2010

Oscar Night: Popcorn Goes Glam!

Hosting an Oscar party? Want to jazz up iconic movie snacks? Look no further! I absolutely LOVED these Tasting Table ideas for glamming up Oscar-night popcorn. If you're looking for a DIY option, there's a fabulous recipe for Bacon Truffle Pecorino Popcorn at the end.

Cordelia Culver's Bacon Pecorino Popcorn
Photo courtesy of Tasting Table LA

At the bar at Hatfield's, fingers fight for space in the complimentary bowls of shallot-garlic-rosemary popcorn placed in front of every customer. Quinn Hatfield first cooks the kernels in garlic-infused vegetable oil, then adds shallot oil, fresh rosemary and sea salt to the popped corn. It's addictive.

The happy-hour popcorn ($6) at XIV celebrates Michael Mina's rule of threes: Fluffy kernels are tossed with truffle butter, chopped black truffles and truffle salt, creating the Champagne of popcorn if there ever was one.

But the award for most decadent goes to the new Sweetsalt Foods Shop in Toluca Lake. While you're waiting for that duck confit, goat cheese and lavender honey sandwich, it's almost impossible to resist the bags of bacon-truffle-caramel popcorn ($3) sitting next to the register.

This earthy, sweet, salty, porky snack (pictured) is made exclusively for the shop by Cordelia Culver, a local chef and caterer. If Sweetsalt is out of stock (it goes fast), make Culver's bacon-Pecorino popcorn for an Academy Award-winning night instead.

Recipe: Bacon Truffle Pecorino Popcorn
Recipe adapted from Cordelia Culver
Makes 4 servings
  • 4 strips thick applewood-smoked bacon
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon white truffle oil
  • 4 quarts (approximately 16 cups) &eshly popped corn
  • (about ½ cup unpopped kernels)
  • 2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated
  • Kosher salt
1. Cut the bacon crosswise into ¼-inch-thick strips. In a small skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until golden-brown, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the butter to the skillet and stir until melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the truffle oil.

3. In a large bowl, pour the hot bacon mixture over the popcorn, stirring to coat evenly. Add the cheese, season with salt and serve immediately.
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